Embroidered Christening Robe & Cap 1936

Ella Josephine Sterling made this study for an Embroidered Christening Robe & Cap, with what looks like pencil and watercolor. I’m fascinated by the way the piece shows her art-making process, all these different sections that she’s broken down, measured, and labelled. You can really see the texture that she’s planned, like the frills on the sleeves or the embroidery on the cap; it’s all carefully rendered with layers of delicate grey washes, and little, controlled marks. The surface is so interesting, it shows a real tension between control and spontaneity. Look at the vertical stripes on the dress, and you can see the way she’s let the wash bleed to create a soft, flowing effect. You can also see the influence of Art Nouveau, especially in the floral motifs and flowing lines. It reminds me a bit of the work of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, particularly his textile designs, where he also combined organic forms with geometric patterns. It shows you how art is just this ongoing exchange of ideas, across time and between different practices. It’s never really finished, is it?