Dameskapsels en hoofddeksels by Daniel Nikolaus Chodowiecki

Dameskapsels en hoofddeksels 1779

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drawing, print, etching, paper

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portrait

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drawing

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neoclacissism

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print

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etching

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paper

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genre-painting

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history-painting

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miniature

Dimensions: height 112 mm, width 144 mm

Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain

Curator: At first glance, I see these impossible architectural forms perched on women's heads – a bewildering array of powdered wigs and elaborate headwear. There's almost something cartoonish about them. Editor: Indeed! What you're seeing is an etching by Daniel Nikolaus Chodowiecki, made around 1779, titled “Dameskapsels en hoofddeksels.” It resides here at the Rijksmuseum and translates roughly to "Ladies' hairstyles and headdresses." It’s a print showcasing various fashionable hairstyles of the late 18th century. Think of it as a catalogue of sorts. Curator: A catalogue of excess! Beyond the artistry of the etching itself, it's impossible not to think about the socio-economic implications. What did these hairstyles represent in terms of status, power, and even oppression for the women who wore them? Were they a celebration of femininity or a constraint upon it? Editor: Precisely! That’s what’s so compelling. The hairstyles weren’t just aesthetic choices. They were deeply embedded in the social and political landscape of the time. Think of the French Revolution brewing – the sheer extravagance of these hairstyles in contrast to the poverty of the masses certainly fueled revolutionary sentiments. The taller the hair, the closer to the guillotine, perhaps. Curator: Right. The height of these wigs is astonishing, and the time and resources required to create and maintain them surely meant that only a select segment of the population had access to this visual language. How subversive would it have been to shave your head entirely during that time, refusing to partake? It is hard to envision, in that context, how it would have shattered prevailing notions of femininity and power. Editor: That brings up fascinating questions. The performance of gender, as demonstrated through fashion, was so heavily regulated. Any deviation from the norm would have had serious social repercussions. What's remarkable is that Chodowiecki, through this seemingly simple print, captured this elaborate dance between fashion, power, and identity so poignantly. Curator: Agreed, it feels like such a loaded visual record! Thinking about those restrictive structures that shaped women's lives centuries ago enables me to view how certain contemporary forms of self-expression echo, rebel, or renegotiate this historical narrative. It also calls for us to recognize that beauty and empowerment do not come in only one specific guise. Editor: Exactly. Studying objects like this one illuminates how perceptions and constraints transform through time. It is more than simply pretty pictures, and I am so glad it has pushed us towards further, wider and relevant discussions!

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