Mystère 1938 - 1940

Editor: This is a fashion drawing called "Mystère," dating from around 1938 to 1940, created by Jeanne Lanvin. It's done in ink on paper and currently held at the Rijksmuseum. It has such a sleek, sophisticated, almost melancholy feel. What strikes you about this piece? Curator: The political backdrop to fashion design of the late 1930s, with looming war, certainly shaped perceptions and the need for escapism. The choice of dark tones is quite interesting; they provide an insight into how fashion reflected a desire for practicality as well as projecting ideals during uncertain times. Lanvin, a key figure in couture, clearly understands how social context impacts image-making. Do you notice how the Art Deco influences blend with the somewhat restrained presentation of materials? Editor: I see that balance now, between the stylized figure and the fabric swatches, but how did Art Deco influence fashion in general? Curator: Art Deco influenced nearly all aspects of visual culture from architecture and decorative arts to fashion and film. It was about streamlined elegance, using modern materials, and it reflected a shift in women's roles. Think about shorter hemlines, simpler shapes – this drawing anticipates that with its slender, elongated lines. Editor: So, a drawing like this would have circulated among other designers? Would potential clients see it? Curator: Yes, certainly to trade. Fashion houses promoted their designs using drawings such as this. Its inscription, “Reproduction interdite,” speaks to issues around ownership and copying, showing how valuable such designs were, especially in an increasingly commercial market. Editor: That makes sense. So, this wasn't just about art, but also about intellectual property. I didn't consider that angle at first. Thanks! Curator: Precisely! It is also about seeing how drawings help define our relationship with an object like a dress or a fashion collection. Food for thought.