Study of a Woman's Dress c. 1820

John Vanderlyn made this study of a woman's dress in the early 19th century, using graphite on paper. Vanderlyn, having spent time in Paris, was known for bringing a neoclassical style back to the United States. This sketch offers a glimpse into the sartorial elegance of the era, but it also subtly speaks to the restrictions placed on women. The dress, with its high waist and delicate fabric, was fashionable, yet it was also a marker of status and confinement. Consider how clothing has historically been used to define gender roles and social expectations. What does it mean to only see the dress and not the woman? In a young republic, how did the artist reflect the identity of the women he depicted? Vanderlyn's choice to focus on the dress invites us to consider the layers of meaning embedded in clothing and representation.