painting, oil-paint
portrait
painting
oil-paint
costume
group-portraits
painting painterly
genre-painting
realism
Copyright: Public domain
Eastman Johnson painted "The New Bonnet," likely in the 1870s, with oil on canvas, a popular medium at the time. But it's the bonnet itself that really draws our attention. Constructed from layers of fabric, ribbon, and trim, it represents the artistry of millinery, a skilled trade. Note the contrast between the plain interior and the elaborate bonnet, a signifier of status and taste. The woman admiring it isn't just appreciating its beauty; she's engaging with a whole network of makers, merchants, and consumers. The making of such an object involved a complex division of labor, from textile production to the work of the milliner herself. By focusing on this detail, Johnson invites us to consider the social and economic context of fashion, and the complex labor and industries behind it.
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