Waistcoat by Louis Maldarelli

Waistcoat 1937

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drawing, textile

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portrait

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fashion design

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drawing

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underwear fashion design

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light pencil work

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fashion mockup

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textile

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fashion and textile design

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personal sketchbook

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historical fashion

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fashion sketch

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costume design

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clothing design

Dimensions: overall: 36.6 x 30.3 cm (14 7/16 x 11 15/16 in.)

Copyright: National Gallery of Art: CC0 1.0

Curator: I’m struck by the elegance of this drawing. The color palette alone gives it an air of royalty. Editor: Yes, "Waistcoat" by Louis Maldarelli, dating back to 1937. What is particularly intriguing is how it captures not just the form but also the potential texture and weight of the fabric. Curator: Absolutely. It feels like we’re looking at more than just a design; it’s almost a portrait of a garment. And look at the meticulous detail of the embellishments – they speak volumes about the kind of craftsmanship valued at the time. The labor implied by the precise detailing elevates this to more than just a sketch, I would argue. Editor: It is interesting to see how traditional craft becomes re-defined, too. Think about the rise of industrialization and the perceived threats this poses. It seems appropriate to ask how mass-produced garments affected the perceived value of tailored, designed garments at the time. Curator: It would have been quite different in a world increasingly dominated by ready-to-wear clothing. It could be seen as a statement against those production processes. Editor: Or perhaps feeding them: fashion always reflects what is happening, sociologically and politically. Here, even the choice of medium—a simple pencil and what appears to be watercolor—speaks to accessibility and efficiency. Maldarelli may have aimed for broad appeal or perhaps the work itself was a study of technique. Curator: Interesting thought. Do you see any links to the contemporary political climate reflected in the item of clothing itself? Editor: Definitely. Though, that can be very complex. Perhaps the design’s formality, alongside its sketched rendering in drawing form, shows the constraints imposed on design thinking in that time. The designer is very clearly thinking inside the box. Curator: Thinking about what kind of statements we might make with our own attire, reflecting today's sensibilities and debates is always a good note to conclude on. Editor: Indeed! It speaks to art’s relevance even in what seems like the most unassuming form: clothing.

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