Cutaway coat 1860 - 1865

Editor: This is a cutaway coat, created sometime between 1860 and 1865, made of textile, and designed by Brooks Brothers. It looks so formal and restrictive. What can you tell me about this garment in the context of the time it was made? Curator: This cutaway coat embodies a very specific idea of masculinity and social hierarchy. Think about the Civil War era – what did clothing represent for different groups? How did fashion become a visual marker of class, allegiance, and even political leaning during such a polarized time? Editor: I guess I hadn't thought about it that way. It's easy to just see it as a fancy coat. Curator: Exactly. This wasn’t just any coat. Its rigid structure, the dark color… these were deliberate choices that spoke volumes about the wearer’s status and adherence to social norms. Consider also the labor that went into its construction, likely by enslaved people, if the textiles originated in the American South. The very fabric is implicated in systems of oppression. What does it mean to see an object of supposed refinement born from such injustice? Editor: So it’s not just about aesthetics, but also a reflection of power dynamics. Curator: Precisely! These garments functioned almost as uniforms, signaling a certain type of participation in the social order. And consider who *didn’t* have access to this kind of attire. Clothing can become a potent symbol of exclusion. Thinking about sartorial activism today, it makes me consider how far we've come. Editor: That gives me a lot to consider. It’s amazing how one garment can reveal so much about history. Curator: Indeed. And remember to always question whose stories are embedded in these artifacts, and whose are conspicuously missing.