Robe de cortège faille marron, garni à l'envelure et aux poches broderie or, ceinture lamé or. 1938 - 1939

Curator: This is a fashion sketch by Jean Dessès, dating from 1938-1939. The description, in French, tells us it's a "Robe de cortège faille marron, garni à l'envelure et aux poches broderie or, ceinture lamé or" – a brown faille procession dress, trimmed with gold embroidery at the neckline and pockets, and with a gold lamé belt. Editor: It's elegant! I immediately notice the restrained color palette and the graceful, elongated silhouette. You get the sense of how the material would drape, the feel of the fabric even in a sketch. Curator: Absolutely. The late 1930s were a fascinating time for fashion. The world was on the brink of war, but in Paris, haute couture continued to flourish. Dessès, still early in his career, captured this moment. Editor: It’s interesting how the artist renders the textures – the almost chalky quality of the dress, and the touches of gold suggesting intricate craftsmanship. I wonder about the workshops involved in creating such a garment? How many hands, how much labor, would have been invested in bringing this design to life? Curator: Exactly. We can consider not just the creative input of Dessès but also the roles of seamstresses, embroiderers, and the social expectations that underpinned this kind of luxury. This sketch embodies the pre-war optimism and focus on handcrafted detail. Editor: It's like holding a little piece of social history, rendered in paper and pen. It makes me wonder about the woman who would have worn this dress, where she wore it, and what kind of statement she intended to make. Curator: It’s an echo of a world on the verge of massive change, frozen in this image of carefully constructed elegance. I see it as more than just a dress; it’s a moment captured on the precipice. Editor: And to me, a potent reminder of the human skill and the amount of often-unseen labor involved in even a single, sketched line.