Dimensions: height 169 mm, width 133 mm
Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain
Editor: This is "Jewel in the Shape of an Orfèvrerie Bouquet," a 1621 ink engraving by Pierre Nolin. It feels like looking at blueprints for jewelry, both intricate and a little cold. What's your take? Curator: It’s a fascinating window into the social history of adornment. The precise lines and geometric forms speak to the rising importance of craftsmanship and luxury goods during the Baroque period. It shows how status symbols evolved as Europe expanded. What do you notice about the print's distribution? Editor: It's not a painting or a sculpture, so... were these patterns widely disseminated through prints, sort of like fashion magazines today? Curator: Exactly. Engravings like this allowed for the circulation of designs, influencing jewelry makers and patrons across geographical boundaries. The printing press democratized, to an extent, the styles worn by the upper class. Who do you think used such miniature? Editor: Well, judging by all the meticulous ornamentation, perhaps wealthy patrons commissioned these for ideas, to get an idea for their personal emblems? Curator: It served that purpose, certainly. More importantly, it was part of a culture that highly valued refinement. It offered new models in how personal identity was represented and negotiated publicly. It allowed new classes to enter the competition of self representation through the ornament. Editor: So, in essence, this detailed print, more than just an image, illustrates cultural shifts and democratizing aspirations during its time. I never considered print's sociological value like that. Curator: Precisely! These engravings offer us a crucial perspective on how social distinctions are shaped by material culture and visual communication.
This print is from Tabulae Gemmiferae XXIV, a book with 24 designs for so-called Orfèvrerie bouquets. In this design, along with square, table-cut gemstones are also a few lozenge-shaped ones. The bouquet has two parts: at the left among the stones can be seen the design for the gold mount, and at the right the floral design for the enamelling or engraving on the back.
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