Man's Jifu (Semiformal Court Robe) Possibly 1644 - 1911

This Manchu Jifu, or semiformal court robe, shimmers with status. Created by unknown hands, it is a feat of textile production. Consider the materials: silk, satin and gold-wrapped thread. Think about the processes required to make this robe, each demanding specialized skill. Silk cultivation, spinning and dyeing, complex weaving, and embroidery, all involving many laborers. The satin ground is densely patterned with symbols of rank and power. Dragons with gold-wrapped thread were carefully couched onto the surface. The weight of gold thread suggests wealth, and the robe served as a potent declaration of imperial authority. But it’s not just the precious materials that signify status, it's also the immense amount of work involved in its production. Paying close attention to materials and making allows us to appreciate the social and political context of the robe, challenging the perceived divide between craft and fine art.