Hoedje van zilvergrijs stro, versierd met donkerpaarse gaze de soie en een toef paars gekleurde veren c. 1880 - 1883
textile
textile
Dimensions: height 10 cm, width 12 cm, depth 27.5 cm, height 13.5 cm, width 33 cm
Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain
Curator: What a dramatic hat! Like something a daring theatre actress would wear on stage... a touch bohemian, definitely assertive. Editor: Indeed! What we’re looking at here is a straw hat crafted circa 1880-1883. The piece is attributed to C. van der Hand, and its complete, wonderfully descriptive title is: "Hat of silver-grey straw, decorated with dark purple gauze de soie and a tuft of purple-coloured feathers." Curator: Silver-grey straw doesn’t quite capture that shimmering effect. Almost otherworldly. But then bam!—the purple. It grounds the piece, makes it feel somehow both fantastical and very, very grounded in earthly desires. It's giving romantic tragedy, no? Editor: Purple, of course, had strong associations with royalty, even then. And fashion, at this time, was starting to break away from restrictive silhouettes, reflecting a larger cultural shift toward increased freedoms and more individual expression, especially for women. This piece speaks to that moment in a way a portrait never could. Curator: You’re so right, the fashion, it tells such a story, even just on its own, like this. I’m really drawn to that contrast between the somewhat rough texture of the straw and the delicateness of the gauze and feathers. The tension gives it that "it" factor, a certain je ne sais quoi... as they say. Editor: And someone definitely considered that contrast in a way that signals taste and, dare I say, defiance. The late 19th century was a complicated moment for displays of wealth, as rapid industrialization created immense disparities in access and consumption. This sort of display – not outright ostentatious, but quietly luxurious – was itself a signal of cultural understanding, of refinement. Curator: Definitely, a way of communicating volumes without saying a word. Editor: So, considering that the hat and its display may seem like frivolity to modern eyes, it’s vital to see it as an historical object with profound links to economic and societal values in the Netherlands and Europe. Curator: Absolutely, more than a fashionable bauble, an encrypted message worn atop the head! The purple silk whispers secrets of ambition. Editor: Right. So the hat remains not just an aesthetically curious object, but an intimate trace of a moment, and maybe even a very strong, individual woman.
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