Mulier Generosa Hispanica (Spanish Gentlewoman) by Wenceslaus Hollar

Mulier Generosa Hispanica (Spanish Gentlewoman) 1644

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print, engraving

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portrait

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baroque

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print

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engraving

Dimensions: plate: 9.3 × 5.9 cm (3 11/16 × 2 5/16 in.) sheet: 9.7 × 6.4 cm (3 13/16 × 2 1/2 in.)

Copyright: National Gallery of Art: CC0 1.0

Wenceslaus Hollar's etching presents us with a Spanish Gentlewoman; she is a vision of contained elegance, circa 1644. Her elaborate ruff, the meticulously patterned fabric, and the jeweled headdress speak of status and refinement. Consider the ruff, a symbol of the Spanish Golden Age. It frames the face, creating a halo-like effect—a sartorial echo of the divine halos seen in Renaissance art. The ruff isn't just fabric; it's a cultural signifier, a barrier, both physical and symbolic, that separates the wearer from the world. We see similar neckwear throughout history; from the simple linen neckcloths of the middle ages used for warmth, to the towering lace collars in portraits of Queen Elizabeth I. Each iteration carries the weight of its time. This image evokes a sense of cultural memory, tapping into a collective understanding of status, fashion, and identity. There is also a subconscious psychological tension between concealment and display. The lady is adorned, yet almost imprisoned by her attire. This reflects a societal ambivalence towards women.

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