Journal des Dames et des Modes, Costumes Parisiens, 1913, No. 101 : Costume de bain 1913

Curator: Here we have George Barbier's 1913 "Journal des Dames et des Modes, Costumes Parisiens, No. 101: Costume de bain," currently held at the Rijksmuseum. It's an ink and watercolor drawing. Editor: What strikes me first is how incredibly demure it is. It depicts a woman wading in water, but she seems more preoccupied with her toy than with the water itself. Curator: The image comes from a period of significant shifts in women's fashion and social roles. Before World War I, the idea of women in revealing swimwear was quite transgressive. The artist presents her standing on a beach. The style reflects the Art Nouveau tastes of the time, but this publication also participates in a bigger fashion industry. Editor: Absolutely, fashion becomes the language to represent a time, and swimming costumes became a subject with many potential readings. The bathing costume itself has some rather curious aspects: in general, it appears pretty modern, very loose and not overtly prudish, yet she also has this bow tied at the waist that accentuates her figure. This strange fashion object she’s holding… It could even have talismanic properties to bless her swimwear itself. Curator: It’s a representation meant for a specific readership. Magazines like "Journal des Dames et des Modes" played a role in disseminating fashion trends and dictating what was socially acceptable, both reflecting and shaping upper-class ideals. This imagery normalizes both that body type and that level of relative modesty. Editor: Note also that she’s outdoors and yet maintains a pallid aristocratic complexion! This isn’t a scene of healthful, sporty pleasure, or an appreciation for fresh sea air, rather more like she has deliberately come to dip a toe. She shows an uncanny disconnect from the world of nature itself. Curator: Barbier presents an evolving social standard within the context of established codes. He negotiates the rise of new expressions of female identity, even in the restricted sphere of bourgeois fashion, such as swimwear. Editor: I agree. By paying close attention to the recurring symbols and dress codes, you've aided us to see how women start moving from enclosed aristocratic status toward this modernity and to value them today.