The Honourable Frances Duncombe 1777

Thomas Gainsborough painted The Honourable Frances Duncombe with oil on canvas. The luminous effect is achieved through layering, and is of course dependent on the availability of pigments. But that’s only part of the story. Gainsborough was fascinated by the textures and qualities of textiles. In the eighteenth century, fabric was a primary marker of status. The silk satin of Frances’ gown shimmers, reflecting the light. Its elaborate construction – likely achieved through the intense labor of many hands – indicates the wealth and power of the sitter. There is a social contract here: the painting celebrates Frances’ place in the English aristocracy, and she, in turn, validates Gainsborough’s skill as a painter. When we focus on materiality, we see how even a seemingly straightforward portrait is actually an index of broad social and economic conditions.