Gallerie des Modes et Costumes Français, 1778, N 77 : Jeune Dame de Lyon (...) c. 1778
Dimensions: height 277 mm, width 193 mm
Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain
Curator: Ah, here we have "Gallerie des Modes et Costumes Français, 1778, N 77 : Jeune Dame de Lyon…", a print by Etienne Claude Voysard, dating from around 1778. A captivating example of Rococo fashion! Editor: My initial impression is just pure extravagance! The sheer volume of that dress is astonishing. It completely dictates the figure, overwhelming any sense of natural form. Curator: Precisely! Let's consider the materials and the labor involved. That dress is likely taffeta, known for its stiffness, allowing it to hold such a shape. Think about the weaving, the dyeing, the intricate pleating… It's a testament to skilled craftsmanship, wouldn't you agree? Editor: Absolutely. But consider the semiotics! The towering hairstyle, the pale skin, the delicate pose – they speak volumes about societal ideals and aspirations of the time. Pink often suggests youth, innocence, almost doll-like fragility which amplifies her ornamental status. Curator: Good point. The colour is intriguing, when we think about the dyes involved; consider the processes used to create these shades; the availability of dyes for the printmaking process reflects the colonial dynamics of trade at the time and this would impact the end result for the consumption for affluent elites. Editor: And this echoes, literally reflects the ideals around presentation that elite people wish to cultivate. Her very presence conveys a detachment from mundane tasks or manual labour. And let’s note the significance of the bouquet, symbolising fertility, perhaps desirability. All subtly communicating aspects of her position. Curator: It all speaks to a society fixated on appearance, consumption, and displays of wealth and position, it also hides some realities. This image presents such labour as a refined practice. Editor: And though the background suggests an outdoor setting with flowers in the distance, even this alludes more towards constructed and shaped, the image doesn't necessarily engage with a depiction of "Nature". Everything is controlled and deliberate. The entire image seems constructed around established symbolism, right down to that thoughtful, slightly melancholy expression. It reminds us about the expectations that society held, but, how it constrained lived experience. Curator: I agree. Looking at it this way, this "mode" from the late 18th-century doesn’t merely depict fashionable tastes, but also the systems, values and craft labour. Editor: A tiny image containing a much wider view of the 18th century through aesthetics, artifice and aspiration.
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