Amy Wells, from the Actresses series (N245) issued by Kinney Brothers to promote Sweet Caporal Cigarettes 1890

Curator: Here we have an advertisement card dating to around 1890, "Amy Wells, from the Actresses series (N245)," issued by Kinney Brothers to promote Sweet Caporal Cigarettes. It's part of the Met's collection. Editor: My immediate reaction is of both fascination and unease. There's something strikingly direct about her gaze, but the sepia tones and slight damage give it a ghostly, vintage feel. What were these cards printed on, exactly? Curator: Most likely mass-produced using a lithographic printing process, possibly with a photographic element transferred onto the stone or metal plate for printing. These cards were incredibly popular, inserted directly into cigarette packs as both a value add and a collectible advertisement. Editor: So, this was about branding and customer loyalty in a highly competitive market. This small card wasn’t just an image, it was part of a broader capitalist engine, fueling consumption and associating products with the allure of celebrity. The actress, Amy Wells, lends an aspiration quality. Does the image tell us about the symbolism used to advertise this product? Curator: Absolutely. Wells herself represents a particular ideal of beauty and celebrity of that era. Actresses were seen as glamorous figures. In this print, Amy wears somewhat unusual garments including lacy elements, that likely evoked sensations of exoticism and refinement, designed to elevate the perceived quality of Sweet Caporal cigarettes. Editor: The slightly faded colours enhance this. This deliberate exoticism aimed at attracting a wider customer base intrigues me, especially considering the societal context and prevailing notions of women and their roles. Tobacco companies often relied on striking visual symbols and attractive figures to associate their products with aspiration, enjoyment, and even a hint of transgression. Curator: Yes, you’re right to point out that societal element, also the power of this specific woman depicted. These trading cards weren’t always considered precious or valuable objects. It is through a close reading of their modes of manufacture and social life that we might reveal them to be. Editor: Absolutely, the imagery works as a capsule for ideas around celebrity culture. Now I am curious, where did the photograph originate? Was it custom made for this run of advertising cards? What sources was Amy Wells known for at that time? Curator: Those questions open new perspectives. The value lies precisely in what they reveal about how material culture intersected with personal aspiration, and, indeed, addiction, during that specific moment in history. Editor: I agree completely. It is surprising how much history is wrapped into one small advertisement.