Manteau de Covercoat garni de côté. Bonnet de paille. by Anonymous

Manteau de Covercoat garni de côté. Bonnet de paille. 1919

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print

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portrait

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art-nouveau

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print

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caricature

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caricature

Dimensions: plate: 17.1 x 12 cm (6 3/4 x 4 3/4 in.) sheet: 22.1 x 14.3 cm (8 11/16 x 5 5/8 in.)

Copyright: National Gallery of Art: CC0 1.0

Curator: Look at this! “Manteau de Covercoat garni de côté. Bonnet de paille.” Coat of Covercoat garnished with ribs, straw hat, if my French hasn’t completely abandoned me. Published in 1919, this print from an anonymous artist encapsulates the spirit of Art Nouveau. Editor: Ooh, a bit of a sassy number! There's an incredible lightness to the figure that is so different from stuffy portraiture. Curator: It’s a fashion plate, right? Pulled from an almanac, intended for a wide public viewership. You get this immediate sense of social commentary wrapped up in what feels like… well, consumerism. It’s a kind of coded message about access and status, isn’t it? Editor: Status for sure! That jaunty green hat paired with the tailored coat practically screams "Look at me!". It’s so stylized and decorative—all those rhythmic lines forming the skirt, the playful contrast between the angular silhouette and those little flowers in the field. It has a real emotional punch! And, of course, this being a print, accessible status, one supposes. Curator: Absolutely. But consider the historical context. This image emerges right after World War I. The war drastically reshaped gender roles. While seemingly decorative, it is signaling seismic societal shifts via clothing. Editor: A potent cocktail. A reflection of an era—disenchantment, certainly, but also hope. Rebuilding and redefining. Looking ahead. I get a real kick out of those slightly ridiculous, exaggerated lines. Fashion, always a way to mask...and unmask. Curator: Precisely. So, it seems what appears at first to be a simple fashion plate contains a surprisingly powerful conversation about access, gender, and a society in transition. It's always rewarding to unearth these layers. Editor: For sure. One can imagine her as quite the clever character in her spiffy ensemble! Definitely inspires ideas.

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