Revue de la Mode, Gazette de la Famille, dimanche 24 octobre 1880, 9e année, No. 460: Toilettes de la Mme Bazin (...) 1880
Dimensions: height 374 mm, width 270 mm
Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain
Curator: This print is titled "Revue de la Mode, Gazette de la Famille," created by E. Llanderal in 1880. It’s an ink and watercolor illustration, likely intended for a personal sketchbook or as part of the fashion magazine it names. Editor: It strikes me as restrained, almost melancholy. The cool tones and intricate detail of the dresses, particularly in their construction, feel burdened by expectation. Curator: Notice how the artist masterfully uses line and shading to depict the elaborate ruching and draping. The attention to the textures, the smooth satin versus the rougher lace, is remarkable. Consider how those forms dictate how women's bodies had to perform, literally encased and posed in that era. Editor: Precisely! It's a commentary, intentionally or not, on the physical and social constraints placed on women. Those tightly corseted silhouettes were literally shaping women into ideals prescribed by patriarchal structures. The “Revue de la Mode” wasn't just showcasing clothes; it was broadcasting social codes and gendered expectations. Curator: Agreed. Structurally, observe the vertical lines emphasized by the figures and the architectural backdrop; these verticals draw your eye upward and emphasize the slender ideal so prized during this period. And what does that imply for other body types? Editor: The subtext is always the text for me, because it speaks volumes! The implied critique is clear—this image perpetuates unattainable beauty standards and reinforces class divisions through its celebration of extravagant clothing that only the elite could afford. It demands compliance. Curator: Although, to offer an alternative interpretation, these fashion plates also presented aspirational imagery, empowering women to engage with design and express themselves, however constrained they might be by contemporary standards. It speaks volumes to material culture's capacity to incite a discourse. Editor: Perhaps. But the potential for expression remains within carefully policed boundaries. In some ways, it’s a double bind; offering visibility while upholding power structures. It makes me wonder what we wear today that carries that kind of silent weight. Curator: Ultimately, Llanderal’s print is rich in detail, providing much more to consider than simple aesthetics, revealing complexities through form, function and finish. Editor: Yes, a fashionable paradox rendered in ink and watercolor.
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