Journal des Dames et des Modes, Costumes Parisiens, 1914, No. 167 by Gaudray d'Anjou

Journal des Dames et des Modes, Costumes Parisiens, 1914, No. 167 1914

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drawing, paper, ink

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drawing

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art-nouveau

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figuration

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paper

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ink

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line

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decorative-art

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dress

Dimensions: height 178 mm, width 109 mm

Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain

Curator: Today, we're looking at an ink drawing on paper entitled "Journal des Dames et des Modes, Costumes Parisiens, 1914, No. 167" by Gaudray d'Anjou. Editor: The first thing that strikes me is its understated elegance. It’s mostly lines, black against cream, and it's somehow very modern and detached despite its age. Curator: Absolutely. The artist’s stylistic use of line emphasizes contour over volume; the whole composition operates with an "art-nouveau" sensibility, decorative and fluid. Do you see it as inherently "feminine"? Editor: Yes, but in a specific way. This illustration captures an evolving representation of femininity around that time. Her dress, loosely fitted yet elongated, evokes status, perhaps wealth, certainly sophistication. Curator: It seems we are viewing her through a visual code of class aspiration. What do you make of her almost languid, alienated gesture, presenting what seems to be seed or fruit at her fingertips? Editor: That single piece of foliage hints at a broader context, maybe a changing relationship with nature. It suggests an artificiality too, like something deliberately arranged as part of the costume itself. In classical terms, perhaps, it is reminiscent of offerings. Curator: Yes, her costume acts as its own system of semiotic references. The belt around the waist is particularly striking in that it simultaneously accentuates and obscures her figure, thereby establishing an aesthetic standard while concealing corporeal form. Editor: A carefully constructed performance of ideals. To me, it captures a fleeting moment in fashion history while gesturing towards wider cultural anxieties and fantasies. I can imagine where these images may have acted as templates to craft specific versions of femininity through emulation of its many elements. Curator: It's an illustration filled with rich detail despite its simplicity; I concur, its enduring power rests precisely on this complex layering of style and content. Editor: It invites contemplation on not just beauty, but the structures we create to support such things.

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